What Happens When Rack and Pinion Goes Out?

Reviewed by

Richard McCuistian, ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician

Technical Reviewer at CarParts.com

Written by CarParts.com Research Team - Updated on January 25th, 2024

Reading Time: 4 minutes
Summary
  • When your rack and pinion go bad, your vehicle’s steering performance can become faulty and unreliable.
  • Common symptoms of a bad rack and pinion include loose or tight steering, steering rack fluid leak, wobbling tires, and clunking, grinding, or thudding noises.
  • On electric power steering systems, a total loss of steering assist may occur.
  • If you come across one or more of the aforementioned symptoms, don’t delay in replacing your vehicle’s failing rack and pinion.
  • The average cost of a replacement rack and pinion is between $70 and $2,350.

Apart from being hit by another car or crashing into the ditch or a tree, one of the worst things to experience while driving is to lose steering assist or for your steering to become unpredictable.

You depend on your steering system’s rack and pinion for all steering maneuvers. The steering rack is firmly mounted to the car body or frame, with the pinion connected to the steering column through a couple of small universal joints.

Diagram showing how the steering column and the u-joints work together. | Image Source: Richard McCuistian

The rack is connected at both ends to the spindles by the way of the tie rods. On hydraulic steering equipped vehicles, the power steering pump provides over 1,000 pounds of pressure to the steering rack for steering assist.

Pro Tips are nuggets of information direct from ASE-certified automobile technicians working with CarParts.com, which may include unique, personal insights based on their years of experience working in the automotive industry. These can help you make more informed decisions about your car.

Pro Tip: If you have hydraulic rack and pinion steering, the power steering pump needs to be in good working order and full of clean fluid. The rack needs to remain firmly attached to the body or frame. This is also true if you have rack and pinion with no power steering at all.

Here are some of the symptoms you can observe if the rack and pinion goes out:

Loose or Tight Steering

A loose or malfunctioning rack can cause your steering to be somewhat squirrelly and unpredictable. If in the steering column one of the u-joints wears out or gets tight, it can also affect the steering negatively in a way that may be hard to describe when it happens.

Fluid from the Steering Rack Leak

Another symptom is a leaking steering fluid. If you notice that you have to constantly top off your steering fluid, chances are, it is dripping at the wrong places (check the ground for traces). Remember not to confuse the steering fluid with other fluids in your car. It’s the one that’s pinkish red.

If you see fluid leaking from the boots like in this photo, it means the seals within the steering rack are leaking and the rack will need to be replaced. There should be no fluid in the tie rod accordion boots. | Image Source: Richard McCuistian

Tires Wobble

Do you suspect your steering column to be getting out of alignment? That’s one more indicator of a steering system gone bad. When this happens, tire control will be rough, resulting in shaky wheels and uneven wear and tear on the tires themselves.

Noises

Usually, the steering wheel will make noises when something’s wrong it. When you turn it and you hear clunking, grinding, or thudding, that could mean your steering components are starting to get loose.

If you encounter most of the above situations, it’s a must for you to go to your trusted mechanic and have your vehicle checked immediately. Again, it is not advised to continue driving with faulty rack and pinion. Your best option is to replace them.

The average cost of replacement parts is between $700 and $2,000. Meanwhile, rack and pinion labor cost is estimated at $200, which can go up to $500, which means your expenses will surely soar!

Pro Tips are nuggets of information direct from ASE-certified automobile technicians working with CarParts.com, which may include unique, personal insights based on their years of experience working in the automotive industry. These can help you make more informed decisions about your car.

Pro Tip: If you replace the steering rack yourself, lock the steering wheel at the center position before removing the rack and make sure the rack is centered before reinstalling it. If you don’t center the steering wheel first and make sure the rack is centered before installing it, you can destroy the spiral airbag “clockspring” under the steering wheel, which will be an added expense.

About The Author
Reviewed By Richard McCuistian, ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician

Technical Reviewer at CarParts.com

Richard McCuistian has worked for nearly 50 years in the automotive field as a professional technician, an instructor, and a freelance automotive writer for Motor Age, ACtion magazine, Power Stroke Registry, and others. Richard is ASE certified for more than 30 years in 10 categories, including L1 Advanced Engine Performance and Light Vehicle Diesel.

Written By CarParts.com Research Team

Automotive and Tech Writers

The CarParts.com Research Team is composed of experienced automotive and tech writers working with (ASE)-certified automobile technicians and automotive journalists to bring up-to-date, helpful information to car owners in the US. Guided by CarParts.com's thorough editorial process, our team strives to produce guides and resources DIYers and casual car owners can trust.

Any information provided on this Website is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace consultation with a professional mechanic. The accuracy and timeliness of the information may change from the time of publication.

View Comments

  • I have replaced my struts on both driver and passenger front tires with the quick struts being their replacement, the knock sound finally subsided but when i take the car 60 or over it becomes repetitive with a rolling type feeling/sounding vibration what else can i check to locate what might be the cause in vibration keep in mind ive replaced my tire, my tie rod, my drivers side wheel bearing and now my strut and the strut mounts on both driverside and passenger side

    • Hi Misty,

      What is the year/make/model of your vehicle? Was the vibration there before you replaced the struts?

  • my 2016 Chrysler 300c had front end damage, replaced tie rod ends on both sides of the vehicle. Got an alignment which is perfect and still drifts to the left and has a tendency to go to the left especially when hitting a divot on the road, but sometimes it could straight as well. Its a very odd case becuz it not always drifting to the left sometimes it could go straight but seldomly to the right. I took the car back for an inspection at the alignment shop they told me it could possibly be the steering gear. But I have no lights on, no sound, no leaks, but I would say steering is a bit loose when steering to the left. Would anything bad happen if I just ignored the problem?

    • Hello,

      If the alignment is indeed perfect, then it's possible that the steering gear is to blame for your issue. Because steering problems can make your vehicle unsafe, you should fix any such issues right away. However, if the alignment is spot on, it's unlikely that the problem will damage other parts of the vehicle.

    • Hello,

      If the threads on the inner tie rods are stripped out, it's very possible that the matching threads in the rack are also stripped.

  • I have a 2005 jeep liberty 4x4, Parts replaced; are the, 1. Rack & Pinon hydraulic line, it was leaking, it had a small hole from rubbing against another metal part. 2. The rack & Pinon itself. 3. The steering pump.....BUT, the fluid is squirting out of reservoir from the lid & making the same clunking noise, WHAT'S seems to be the problem..???? HELP!!

    • Hello LaVerne,

      Is the car squirting power steering fluid with the engine off or the engine running? Is the fluid level correct?

  • 2013 Chrysler 300. Even the smallest road bump makes the front wheels rattle. Each time I have changed control arm it work temporarily. Last time changed all control arms, front strutts and ball joints. Still rattles and now pulls to the left. Help!

    • Hello Melinda,

      A lot of problems can cause a front-end rattle. You've replaced a lot of parts already, but you didn't mention replacing the sway bar links or bushings. You might check those, even though they wouldn't cause your vehicle to pull to one side or another.

      Did you get an alignment after replacing the control arms, struts, etc.? If not, that could be causing your vehicle to pull to the left.

  • Well I have a 2011 Chevy Impala and the steering is hard both ways it used to be hard one way but now both ways do you think they're acting opinion is bad or is it the power steering pump

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Published by
CarParts.com Research Team and Richard McCuistian, ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician