It’s a nice day out, so you decide to roll down your car’s windows to enjoy some fresh air. But then you get on the freeway, and you press the switch to close the windows—only now, one of them is stuck. And you have no idea what to do.
Obviously, leaving your window rolled down isn’t really an option. Not only does it make your car vulnerable to theft, but it will also leave the vehicle cabin exposed to the elements. If your window is not rolling up, here are a few things you can check:
The window regulator is the mechanism by which the window motor raises and lowers the window. For decades, scissor-and-gear type regulators were common, and on those, motor failure is the most common cause of malfunction. Seized or worn regulator joints may also cause a similar issue.
Power window motors are reversible DC motors mounted in the doors and connected to the window regulator mechanism, which is usually driven by just two wires. Reversing the polarity to the window motor causes it to reverse direction. Some power window motors (such as the One-Touch-Down and One-Touch-Up motors) are “smart motors” that must be “initialized” whenever they are replaced.
The power window switch is a polarity reversal device that delivers power and ground to the center common terminals. When the switch is operated in one direction, power and ground feed the motor one way, and when the switch is operated in the other direction, the polarity to the motor is reversed. Unfortunately, when it rains while the windows are left down, the switches are usually the first recipient of rainwater, which can collect in the switches and ruin them.
Power window wiring is specialized because the master switch is wired in series with all the other switches. When all the switches are at rest, both sides of the power window motor are grounded. But usually, the ground that feeds all the other switches (on the other doors) is fed to those switches through the master switch. In rare cases, the ground may be fed through the passenger front door switch.
Important Note: Understanding how your power windows are wired makes all the difference if there is a wiring fault preventing window operation. For example, you may see a passenger side power window that will work just fine with the master switch but won’t work with the passenger side switch regardless of “Window Lock” switch position. This can be a problem with the master switch not feeding a ground to the passenger side switch. It can also be caused by a bad passenger side switch. Either one is possible.
One possible cause of an inoperative power window is a faulty motor. Sometimes DC motors have problems with the brushes, so they won’t respond when power and ground are applied. In a case like that, the motor ultimately needs replacing.
But as a temporary measure, you can, with the ignition on and the power window switch engaged, open the car door and slam it. If worn brushes have caused the motor not to work, this may get the window up (or down) a time or two, but don’t count on it working more than once or twice. Detailed step-by-step instructions are listed below under “Quick Fixes for a Stuck Power Window.”
If your window won’t roll up, a temporary fix might be necessary. Here are two options you can try to quickly (and temporarily) fix a stuck car window:
If the steps above did not work…
If your window does not roll up after several attempts, the motor may be too far gone to be revived. It’s also possible that a problem other than the motor is preventing the window from functioning properly.
Note: If you succeed in getting your car window to roll up, do not attempt to roll it down again until the window motor is replaced. There’s no guarantee that a quick fix will work a second time.
Sometimes power windows, particularly the ones in the rear, won’t roll down because they’re stuck in the rubber due to not being used much. If you try to operate the window and it doesn’t work, watch the dome lamp. If the dome lamp dims when you operate the switch, that means power is getting to the motor, and it’s probably not the switch or the wiring.
If you try to operate the window and it doesn’t work, watch the dome lamp. If the dome lamp dims when you operate the switch, that means power is getting to the motor, and it’s probably not the switch or the wiring.
–Richard McCuistian, ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
With the engine running and the slightly higher system voltage provided by alternator output (14.5 volts rather than 12), gently use some silicone spray on the inside and outside of the stuck UP window where the glass meets the flocked run while gently working the switch. It should break loose that way. If it doesn’t, you may need a professional to look at it.
Silicone lubricant (either from the tube or spray) can be used to lubricate the flocked run where the window moves up and down to help the windows operate more smoothly. Technicians do this regularly when working on power windows.
Another common cause of an inoperative power window is a bad or failing window switch. Over time, these switches, just like the rest of the switches found on your vehicle, can get worn out due to frequent use. These switches can be damaged by rainwater corroding the internal switch contacts. If you notice that the window is not responding even when you press down on the switch several times, the switch may be bad. Again, watch the dome light to see if it dims a bit when the switch is operated. If it does, the switch or wiring probably isn’t the cause of the concern.
If you’re using a passenger-side window switch, try pressing the master window switch located on the driver side. If it works using the master window switch, then your passenger-side window switch is likely the problem. However, as mentioned earlier, the master switch can, if the at-rest contacts for the window in question are compromised, prevent the passenger side switch from working even though the passenger side switch isn’t bad. This can be confusing if you don’t understand that the master switch is wired in series with the passenger side and other switches.
Most of the time, you’re lucky if the switch is the culprit. It is usually cheaper to replace the switch than other components if a switch is available. But be very careful with the plastic trim parts when replacing the switch. Vehicles more than a few years old have out-of-production plastic trim parts, and the switch connectors may be brittle as well.
Snow and ice accumulation can also cause your power window to get stuck. If your car window is frozen, it won’t go down or up. Glass windows may stick to their frame and cause stress on the window regulators. If this is the case, a simple solution is to regularly clean your vehicle and de-ice your windows during the winter months.
Severe cold weather may also cause cracks in your window glass.
Even if you get your car window to close using the steps discussed above, you will have to repair it eventually—and it’s advisable to repair it as soon as you can. After all, you’re more at risk of theft or exposure to toxic fumes if your car window won’t close.
If the problem turns out to be the power window motor, there are many quality parts available online, so finding an affordable window motor replacement is quite easy. You can choose to either replace the motor yourself (if you have the know-how) or have a professional tackle the job for you.
There’s nothing more frustrating than dealing with a window that won’t open or close. Several parts could have broken down, like the motor, regulator, or even the switch.
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Any information provided on this Website is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace consultation with a professional mechanic. The accuracy and timeliness of the information may change from the time of publication.
View Comments
Option#1, slamming the door while pressing the window switch, worked for me. Thank you very much for the information. Helped me a lot 😊😊
Hi Gift,
We're so glad that you found the article useful! Thank you for the feedback.
replaced window motor and door switch, After about a couple times down and up window will lock in down position and will not come up. Have replaced new motor with another new motor and have checked wiring for bad wires and still have same problem.
Hi Will,
Have you checked the window regulator? It's possible that the regulator is binding.
How about when cables are so screwed up you can't move window to replace the regulator. That's where I'm at right now. Pulled motor and cables are visible and hanging out and can't Budge window.???
Hi Charles,
What is the year, make, and model of the vehicle you're dealing with?
Hi. I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla and the rear right window won't roll up.
When I push the button down I hear I click on the motor but when I pull the button up nothing happens.
Hi Guillermo,
You're probably dealing with a bad window motor. However, it's also possible that the regulator is binding or there's a circuit problem. You (or your mechanic) will need to do some troubleshooting for a definitive answer. Good luck!
I agree!
I have GL450. Passenger window goes down all the way but only up half way. I can’t slam door hold switch and get it to work. Regulators and motor are working and so are all the switches, I just can’t get it up further than the one half position it stops at.
Hi Bob,
You could be dealing with a bad regulator or possibly the window guides within the door are damaged/out of adjustment. To know for sure, you (or your mechanic) will need to remove the door panel and do some troubleshooting.
I agree to the policy!
Any one buying a new motor with out checking to see if the regulator has any cable twisted or binding first has wasted their money if that is the problem. You may have to spend a lot more time and effort working with the project looking over the regulator first but it will be the better option of the two. (I had a ford that had a small piece of plastic broken off the regulator and had to purchase a regulator WITH THE MOTOR as they manufactured that way.)
Bob Hoffman
I am very pleased with my purchase of regulator and window motor. Price was great delivery was almost on time considering Covid transportation problems. Electronic matched which made me a happy camper👍
Hi Carl,
Thank you so much for the positive feedback! We're happy to hear you're pleased with the parts and service you received!
1997 Ford Aerostar. I have been puzzled with this problem for 2 years. Replaced regulator with new o.e.m., replaced motor 3 times under warranty. Driver side window glass gets stuck at the max. lowered position and at the max high position. Have to release motor bolts to loosen the gl and force it up or down. Passenger side window works fine. Ordered new master switch a couple days ago just because I love to waste money!! What in the world could cause this lock up? I have sprayed silicone WD40 in the flocked tracks, but it only made it slower??
Hello,
It's possible the tracks are bent/damaged, or something else within the door is causing the window to get stuck.
Thanks for reply. This morning I removed the motor again and it runs fine. Then removed the regulator, seems fine, identical to the old original one. Going to remove the flocked insert tomorrow. The front metal track bracket is factory spot welded to inner skin, the rear track bracket is rivetted to inner skin. Don't know what else to remove!!
my car windows dont go up or down when pressing the button and they don't stay up, what do I need
The window motor makes noise but the window doesn't go up and down do you think it's off the track or maybe the regulator